Too much of a good thing is well, not always a good thing. Faced with overwhelming skincare options, fueled by the desire to see immediate results, consumers may resort to layering several, often unrelated, creams, lotions and other potions. Layering the skin, however, isn't like layering a cake. And issues of product compatibility need to be considered as well.

Guidelines For The "Layered Look"

• There is only so much time in the day to fuss with the skin.

  Don't feel pressured to get all your favorite skincare products applied in a single day. Twice daily treatments are more than enough time to spend looking in the mirror. Because of time constraints, layering is appealing. If necessary, alternate days when using various products in order to get them into your routine. Remember, everything evens out in the end. Consistency and maintenance make for clear, beautiful skin, not products 3 or 4 layers deep!

  A corollary to the above: if using multiple products and an item says to use twice daily, it is often fine to back off to once a day presuming an alternative product is helping treat the same type of condition.

• Potentially irritating ingredients should not be layered at the same time.

  This may seem rather obvious. Novice skin rejuvenation users are particularly likely to have more sensitive skin and require working in a single acidic or irritating product line at a time into their routine. Sure there are those with skin made of iron that can layer with the best of them. But if you're just starting out, it is not recommended to layer AHAs with Vitamin C, etc.

• Prime the canvas before treatment.

  All products should be applied to clean skin. Think of your general routine in these steps: prepare (cleanse), repair (treat), prevent and protect (sunscreen).

• Select a bland (plain) moisturizer, if needed, after applying skin treatments.

  Skip the acid laden moisturizer for another time of day when using actives like AHAs, BHAs, acne products and bleaching agents. If products and sunscreen don't provide adequate moisture, opt for hydrating agents such as Cellex-C Sea Silk Oil-Free Moisturizer or MD Formulations Moisture Defense Antioxidant Creme.

• Glycolic acid helps other ingredients penetrate the epidermis more easily.

  Glycolic acid makes for a wonderful exfoliant and also helps draw other ingredients deeper into the skin. Acne and bleaching agents are often layered on top of an area freshly treated with a glycolic treatment such as MD Formulations Glycare Lotion (for acne) or MD Formulations Continuous Renewal Serum for rejuvenation or bleaching concerns.

• Oil absorbing agents can be applied before or after other layers.

  When using DERMAdoctor Tease Zone Oil Control Gel or the like, apply it closest to the skin. After applying skin treatments, I may apply another dab or two in order to reduce any oily residue associated with heavy lotions or sunscreens.

• Go with the lightest weight treatment first.

  When given the option, products with the lightest consistency are applied first. When contemplating layering a cream, a gel and a serum, apply them in the following order: serum, gel and then the cream. Applying the cream first creates a barrier the gel is unlikely to penetrate.

• Antioxidants should be used every morning.

  Cellex-C or SkinCeuticals) or GHK copper peptides, (Neova) are best applied in the morning. Antioxidants help protect against free radical damage associated with light contacting the skin. While they don't function as a sunscreen, they do help protect cellular DNA from damage that can result in wrinkles or precancerous changes. If going with monotherapy, gentler (nonirritating) antioxidant treatments like Neova or DERMAdoctor Wrinkle Revenge Rescue & Protect Eye Balm and DERMAdoctor Wrinkle Revenge Rescue & Protect Facial Cream can also do double duty at nighttime, too.

• Apply sun sensitizing treatments at bedtime.

  Exfoliating agents, Vitamin A treatments and AHAs (especially glycolic acid) can increase sun sensitivity and increase the risk of sunburn. A great time of day to apply is in the evening. Don't forget to wear sunscreen daily!

• Sunscreen is the last step before your make-up.

  Sunscreen should be applied last just before your make-up and applied daily. We always recommend that an actual sunscreen be used rather than a moisturizer or cosmetic sunscreen mixture. Your skin will be better protected and you will be able to specify the level of SPF desired.

• Prescription items are usually applied first at the prescribed time. A notable exception here is that many dermatologists suggest the application of glycolic acid before acne or bleaching medications as the glycolic acid helps draw the product deeper into the skin which helps increase effectiveness. If there is ever a question of the safety of combining a prescription with an additional item, check with your prescribing dermatologist.

One Is The Loneliest Number

Some active ingredients simply don't play well with others. A bit of creativity may be required to fit them into your schedule.

• General rule of thumb: unless otherwise directed, all vitamin A derivatives go solo. This includes Retin A, Renova, Tazorac, Avita, Differin and non-prescription retinols such as Afirm & Neova Retinol ME 0.30%. This includes avoiding a nightly moisturizer. Moisture combined with tretinoin and Tazarotene can increase the risk of irritation. I recommend an every other night approach to Vitamin A creams (gels, lotions, etc.). This helps open up some treatment time as well as helps reduce the dryness and irritation commonly associated with this category of therapy.
• Benzoyl peroxide makes for an unfriendly partner. I rarely layer anything active with a benzoyl peroxide containing treatment. Certainly an oil absorber, mild moisturizer or sunscreen is fine, but don't even think about trying to use it with your Retin A, glycolic acid treatment or a Vitamin C based antioxidant.
• GHK copper peptides are fragile creatures. While a protective 2:1 structure (2 GHK peptides to 1 copper molecule) is meant to provide shelter from harsh prescription level ingredients, it is best to avoid layering them with acidic treatments. An acidic pH can potentially neutralize GHK copper peptides. Assuming adequate cleansing, the use of an AHA cleanser prior to the application of Neova is fine. Certainly acidic skincare containing glycolic, citric (Vitamin C) or Vitamin A containing skincare solutions are best applied some other time of day.

Simply because there are so many skincare options on the market today doesn't mean slathering on each and every one on a daily basis. Pick those that fit your skin type, specific needs make sense with your schedule. Choose wisely, ask questions, and enjoy the results!

Audrey Kunin, M.D.

(Any topic discussed in this article is not intended as medical advice. If you have a medical concern, please check with your doctor.)

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